Every now and then, a watch discussion becomes less about specifications and more about personality. That was basically the idea behind this showdown. During a recent editorial meeting, RJ casually suggested: why not compare two editors’ own watches instead of another predictable spec battle?
Honestly, it was a good idea.
So here we are — Thomas’s vintage Rolex Datejust ref. 1601 facing Daan’s Cartier Santos Galbée XL. At first glance, they seem worlds apart. One is round, traditional, and deeply tied to mid-century Rolex design language. The other is square, slightly rebellious, and unmistakably Parisian.
And yet, they occupy almost the exact same role.
Both are versatile daily watches with a slightly dressy edge. Both have become genuine enthusiast favorites. And perhaps most importantly, both can still be found on the pre-owned market for roughly €5,000–6,000 if you’re patient. In today’s market, that almost feels refreshing.
There’s also a funny little twist here: Daan once described his Santos Galbée as “the Datejust he was actually looking for.” That probably tells you everything you need to know about where this comparison is headed.
Before We Begin: Last Week’s Omega vs. Rolex Battle
Last week’s showdown put the Omega Speedmaster “Reverse Panda” against the Rolex Cosmograph Daytona “Le Mans” Daytona. Predictably, opinions got heated pretty quickly.
The Omega ended up taking 56% of the vote. Not by much, though.
Some readers preferred the cleaner, more restrained look of the Daytona. Others were frustrated by how difficult modern Daytonas have become to buy at retail and voted for the Speedmaster almost out of principle. A few people even complained about screw-down pushers — which, admittedly, watch people love arguing about far more than normal humans probably should.
Interestingly, plenty of readers said they’d choose neither and would rather own the steel versions instead. Fair enough.
Anyway, back to today’s much more personal battle.
Thomas’s Pick: The 1967 Rolex Datejust Ref. 1601 “Japan Dial”
There’s something about a vintage Datejust that’s hard to explain until you wear one for a while. Not flashy. Not loud. Just… right.
Thomas’s particular example is a 1967 ref. 1601 with what collectors often call a “Japan dial.” The nickname sounds mysterious, but the explanation is actually pretty practical. During that era, some markets restricted the import of radioactive lume materials. Japan was one of them. As a result, certain Datejusts were delivered without tritium lume despite still being marked “T Swiss T” on the dial.
That leaves you with an unusually clean-looking watch today.
No aged lume plots. No creamy patina. Just crisp silver tones and sharply tapered hands that still look remarkably elegant nearly sixty years later.
And yes, this is peak vintage Datejust territory: fluted white-gold bezel, pie-pan dial, folded Jubilee bracelet. If you asked someone to picture a classic Datejust from memory, it would probably look something like this.
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Thomas has admitted that the watch isn’t perfect. The lugs have softened over time, and the bracelet shows years of wear. But honestly? That’s part of the charm. Vintage Rolex collectors spend a surprising amount of time debating “honest wear” versus over-restoration, and this watch sits in a sweet spot that feels authentic rather than fragile.
Rolex itself explains the history of the Datejust and its evolution on Rolex’s official Datejust pages, though the older four-digit references like the 1601 have developed a collector culture all their own over the past decade.
Why Many Enthusiasts Still Love the 1601
A big part of the 1601’s appeal is balance.
Earlier Datejust references can feel charming but slightly transitional, almost like Rolex was still figuring out its identity. Later references became more modern and practical, especially after sapphire crystals and quick-set dates arrived. But the 1601 generation lands in a particularly satisfying middle ground.
You still get vintage warmth and proportions. Yet mechanically, the watch remains extremely usable.
Inside sits Rolex’s caliber 1575, part of the legendary 1570 family. It’s not glamorous. Nobody calls it revolutionary. But watchmakers respect it because it’s robust, straightforward, and serviceable even decades later. That matters more than flashy specifications once you actually live with a vintage watch.
| Feature | Rolex Datejust Ref. 1601 |
|---|---|
| Production Era | Approx. 1959–1977 |
| Case Size | 36mm |
| Movement | Rolex Caliber 1575 |
| Crystal | Acrylic |
| Bezel | Fluted white gold |
| Bracelet | Jubilee |
| Water Resistance | Vintage standard, varies by condition |
| Current Market Range | Roughly €5,000–6,000 |
One small detail that enthusiasts obsess over — maybe a little too much — is the pie-pan dial. The sloping outer edge gives the dial noticeably more depth than later flat designs. It’s subtle, but once you notice it, later Datejusts can feel slightly less special.
That said, vintage replica Rolex ownership isn’t for everyone. Acrylic crystals scratch. Old bracelets stretch. And sometimes you’ll spend twenty minutes staring at online listings wondering whether a handset is period correct.
Oddly enough, that’s part of the fun.
Daan’s Choice: Cartier Santos Galbée XL
Now we jump from conservative Swiss restraint to something far more expressive.
The Cartier Santos Galbée XL doesn’t really try to blend in. It never did.
The Santos design dates all the way back to 1904, when Louis Cartier created a wristwatch for aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont. Cartier covers that history in detail in the history of Cartier’s Santos collection. Over the decades, the design evolved repeatedly, but the Galbée generation introduced a softer, more integrated shape that many collectors now consider the sweet spot.
Especially the XL.
Daan originally owned a 1970s Datejust ref. 1603 with a blue dial and engine-turned bezel. On paper, it sounded perfect. In reality, it just didn’t connect emotionally.
That happens more often than collectors admit.
The replica Datejust felt slightly fragile to him. Elegant, yes — but not exciting enough. So he sold it and started looking elsewhere.
Then the Santos happened.
And apparently, that was that.
Why the Santos Feels Different
The Santos Galbée XL has an odd mix of qualities that shouldn’t work together as well as they do.
The exposed screws are industrial and almost messy. The Roman numerals are unmistakably dressy. The polished bezel scratches if you so much as look at it too aggressively. Meanwhile, the brushed bracelet keeps the whole thing grounded enough to wear casually.
It sounds chaotic. Somehow, it works beautifully.
More importantly, it wears differently from almost anything else in this category. The square case creates stronger wrist presence than the dimensions suggest, while the slim profile keeps it comfortable for all-day wear.
Daan described it as the perfect “go anywhere, do anything elegantly” watch. That’s probably more accurate than the overused “GADA” label collectors throw around constantly these days.
| Feature | Cartier Santos Galbée XL Ref. 2823 |
|---|---|
| Production Era | Approx. 2005–2016 |
| Case Size | 32mm square |
| Movement | Cartier automatic caliber |
| Crystal | Sapphire |
| Bracelet | Integrated steel bracelet |
| Water Resistance | 50m |
| Design Signature | Exposed screws + Roman numerals |
| Current Market Range | Roughly €5,000–6,000 |
One thing worth mentioning: the Santos has become dramatically more appreciated over the last five years or so. For a long time, collectors treated Cartier primarily as a jewelry house that also happened to make watches. That perception has changed fast.
Vintage and neo-vintage Cartier collecting now feels less niche than it did even a few years ago. You see it everywhere — forums, auctions, Instagram, dealer inventories. Some of that is trend-driven, obviously. Still, the Santos genuinely deserves the attention.
And yes, the bracelet is excellent.
People don’t always expect that from Cartier.
So Which One Wins?
Honestly? This comes down to what kind of wearer you are.
The Datejust is reassuring. Familiar. Quietly confident. It’s the sort of watch that slowly grows on you over years rather than immediately demanding attention.
The Santos is more emotional. More visual. Slightly more fashion-aware, maybe. You notice it constantly while wearing it, and somehow that never becomes annoying.
If you appreciate vintage mechanics, classic proportions, and understated versatility, the Rolex probably makes more sense.
If you want elegance with personality — and maybe just a little attitude — the Cartier is incredibly hard to beat.
Neither choice is wrong. That’s what makes this comparison interesting in the first place.
And honestly, in a market full of oversized ceramic sports watches and impossible waiting lists, something is refreshing about two older designs still competing purely on charm.